26/08/2009

The Desert Express

Feel quite lucky to be on this train. Looks like there are only fifty
seats and most seem occupied. Either most people buy as they board or
I've been quite lucky.

Not looking like it will be a particularly quiet night. I'd estimate a
quarter of passengers are under five. Pretty much all those between
fifteen and twenty five seem to be having some sort of a mobile phone
music competition. Turning their sound up so loud most of their
speakers sound like they're about to disintegrate. Have they never
heard of headphones?Lucky for them Tommy's electro playlist (which is
being reserved to spur my mojo across the plains of the Kalahari) was
loaded onto the iPod not the iPhone ...else they'd all be done for!

I'm sitting next to a lovely lady called Maria who has her daughter
Chloe sitting on her lap. Chloe is three and very cute. Not at all
shy. She loves watching videos of herself on my camera (she may yet do
for my battery). They are en route to Walvis Bay the final stop of the
train, about 10miles south of Swakupmond. She is from Harare and is
travelling overland by bus to visit a cousin. I told her about my
trip... of course she thinks I'm mad, pretty much everyone I meet
does. We talked about Mugabe and Tsvangerai. She says things have
improved since the start of the reconciliation and there is now food
on the shelves, but it is all terribly expensive and you need US
dollars or Euros (and definitely not sterling) to buy anything. I
asked if she thought Mugabe had at least been good in the beginning.
She said yes, for three days. Evidently not a fan.

Mapantsula is the film on the train. Hope is a good one.

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